Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2023 FRFLSH Burgundy's quiet under-the-radar pick

Burgundy's quiet under-the-radar pick

The ideal aperitif to take with a touch of soda or neat on the rocks

originally planted in 1990 on classic red Jory volcanic soils

Aged 18 to 20 months on the lees in a mix of stainless steel and used Burgundian barrels

The result is a Chenin of remarkable tension and depth

Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2023 FRFLSH Burgundy's quiet under-the-radar pickThe Zeltinger Sonnenuhr the sundial vineyard is one of the Mosel's monuments: a wall of blue slate so steep that picking it is closer to rock climbing than farming. This is Selbach Oster's Grosses Gewchs, the dry wine from their best mid slope parcels, including vines still growing on their original ungrafted roots. It rests on its lees for the better part of a year, which gives it a breadth and texture you don't expect from a grape this high strung.